Place in back half of the shell, insert the battery and turn the system on. If not cut it will make the case hard to close, not to mention it will snap the resistor off and it could ruin the system. This small piece on the shell serves to support the motherboard from the back side. The direction the resistor is facing does not matter.īe sure to cut off the small part of the back shell seen here. Place the resistor on the back side resting on the motherboard and bend the leads over.Ĭut off the excess leads and bend down and solder to the points. I have made my own method for placing the resistor on the board. Next to the "START" SMD tactile switch, you will find solder points LED C2 and LED A2, this is where you will need to solder a 1k ohm resistor. Now that the shell is done, time to power up the system. Once ready for paint, prime, paint a color of your choosing and apply a clear coat to protect the paint. Sand the shell fully to get a nice and even surface for painting. it makes it lighter not to mention it causes less problems when closing the shell if you filled in the cart slot on the back side of the shell. (OPTIONAL STEP) - Remove the DS cart holder completely from the motherboard. On the back side, fill in the pen hole and cartridge slot as you will not need it anymore. Once fully apart place everything in a plastic bag to not loose any piecesĬut down the excess top screen hinges and fill in the holes left over with epoxy of your choice.īE SURE TO NOT FORGET to make speaker holes in the front side under the A/B buttons. Take apart the DS completely but keep the DS bottom screen connected. I will keep the guide quick but throrough. They are very different and there is virtually no room inside this shell, the space is really compact. I will be making a separate guide for the DS lite. The nintendo DS need the top screen to turn on, but in this guide you will find how to trick it to think it is. If this is the case then the DS still works. If it flickers and turns off this is due to the top screen not being connected. Please use a DS that turns on and preferably has the top screen still attached. Let me Explain a few things to save you some trouble: The form factor and battery life are incredible.Įasily 10 hours on the brightest setting.Click to expand.This guide is for making your own Gameboy MacroĮssentially a bottom screen only DS original with the top screen cut off. Regardless, I still far prefer the Macro to an SP or any other iteration of the GBA. Unfortunately there is no way around this. It draws a black border to maintain the same aspect ratio/resolution of a Game Boy Advance. Why is there a black border on the screen? My warranty is essentially: “Email me if you have an issue and I’ll fix it.” As long as you didn’t crack open your Macro to fix it yourself I’ll take care of any repairs.įor press inquiries please email me at Technical Questions The majority of the work for a Macro is in the shell, so the pricing for a shell would be nearly the price of a complete unit. ![]() Standard Macro with a MicroUSB Port: $175.Please subscribe to the mailing list, keep an eye on this site, or follow me on facebook so you can stay up to date! I regularly send emails with notifications of when I will have units for sale, I unfortunately do not do pre-sales though. I make the Macros as I have the time, so it’s fairly sporadic. Paired with a nice looking body it becomes a pretty awesome Game Boy Advance! The Macro is simply a DS modded to run without a top screen.
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